Category: Building

Painting walls at home may just be the next DIY project lined up for many of us looking to spruce up our homes – homes that really need a fresh coat of paint, or those that have become unsuspecting targets of a newfound interest. It is important to, however, note that the project, though seemingly an easy set of tasks expected to result in spectacular results, may really prove quite challenging if not approached in the right way. Looking to achieve stunning results? Then, better work like a pro at the job.

Here are a few things to watch out for before going ahead with the paint job:

Choice of Colours

Choice of colours depends on the structure of the building, existing décor and functional use of the space, if looking to paint interior walls. Colours tend to fade with time or through exposure to sunlight, especially dark colours making it difficult to touch them up later without looking blotchy. Also, some lighter colours such as yellow actually appear more intense in real time. Choosing the right colour for the space is important for the project.

Quality Paints

The quality of the paint determines how well the paint sticks to the surface of the wall and for how long it stays there, given the exposure to light, usage of space, etc. Paint quality depends on the pigment or primer, the binder and other preservatives and additives that help combat spoilage. High-quality paints, especially ones that are water-resistant and can be washed, are ideal in places that are frequently used.

Painting Techniques that Work

The key rule here is never leave a wall unfinished. We all know that painting an entire wall is a strenuous task, even with the rollers and sprayers, but taking a long break from the task surely results in patchwork; each patch of colour applied at a different time looking distinctly different.

The Right Tools

Picking the right tools for a professional job is a must. Tight rollers, bucket grids and extension poles make the task relatively simpler and neat.

While the perfect rollers help lift a decent amount of paint and enable it to be applied smoothly over the wall surface, bucket grids help do away with the paint trays, especially when handling large volumes of paint. Stepladders are not really safe while attempting a professional outcome – using the rollers on a soft, yet sturdy extension pole is a neat way to handle the higher expanse of the walls, as well as the ceiling.

Paint sprayers are equally helpful in cutting down the time taken to paint a wall, but they sure need a steady grip and focus and quite a bit of practice before getting on the task.

Not all interiors sport the same building material and, hence, need a different approach to painting jobs. For tips on applying emulsions paints to plastered surfaces, check out details from http://traditionalpainter.com/how-to-paint-plaster-walls-with-emulsion. Similarly, not all exteriors are alike. Those looking to paint brick walls can find some good tips at http://www.neverpaintagain.co.uk/blog/painting-brick-once-its-done-its-done-for-good-wall-coatings-brickwork/. Achieving a professional finish on exterior painting jobs may not be really possible without the help of professionals, especially in multi-storeyed buildings. Abseiling experts from http://sussexropeaccess.co.uk/ deal with inspection, proofing as well as painting high-rises. For enthusiasts looking to complete the painting job all by themselves, here a few quick tips http://www.diynetwork.com/painting/15-painting-tips-to-paint-like-a-pro/index.html worth exploring.

The costs of building and maintaining modern houses has risen to such tremendous levels that it is imperative to take precautionary measures. The design of any house or building makes some parts more exposed and prone to damage, tear and wear; For example the location of walls exposes them to the vagaries of weather and other factors. Walls are the pillars of houses and therefore it is important to protect them; by providing waterproof barriers that stop moisture and water infiltration to prevent damage. Exterior waterproofing is one of the methods used for this purpose. This prevents water from entering walls therefore preventing the wicking and molding of building materials.

Exterior wall
The International Building Code defines an exterior wall as a “A wall, bearing or nonbearing, that is used as an enclosing wall for a building, other than a fire wall, and that has a slope of 60 degrees or greater with the horizontal plane.” In addition, the International Building Code recommends that waterproofing a structure from the exterior is the only method which is adequate to prevent structural damage caused by water intrusion. This applies to outer exterior walls, basement walls, building foundations and other exterior masonry surfaces.

Basement waterproofing refers to techniques used to prevent water from entering the basement of a house or building. This is because basement walls lie at the foundation of any building and it is important to prevent any damage. The surest way to waterproof basement walls is a full-scale exterior waterproofing solution.

Materials used
Materials or products used possess excellent adhesion to construction surfaces, can be constricted to small spaces and are resistant to water.
Traditionally, exterior waterproofing was done using a degradable asphalt-based covering through damp proofing. But the recent trends point to the use of polymer-based waterproof products which last for the lifetime of the building, and are not affected by soil pH. These polymer-based products also have the advantage of a low viscosity and flexibility which makes them easy to spray directly onto a wall and penetrate any substrate.

Application Methods
These depend on the properties of the type of material being used and the type of external texture that you want for exterior waterproof of walls. The application methods are trowel, roller, squeegee, brush and spray if the material is either fluid like or sheet.

Procedure
The following procedures are employed depending on the type of masonry surface: For the bottom sides of wall footers excavation is done and then exterior drainage systems are constructed to collect water from around the outside of the footers to drain it to another nearby lower location. This prevents water clogging around your walls. This also applies to an existing basement where after excavation the walls are sealed with a waterproofing membrane and a new drainage is placed at the side of the footing.
For the upper parts of the wall spray tar based waterproofing systems or use vinyl sheeting systems to cover the outside wall using the application methods mentioned above.

For foundations and basements under construction, an external membrane or cementations are used together with traditional French drain that runs round the outside of the property below ground to help manage the high levels of ground water that can cause hydrostatic pressure against the underground structures.

In conclusion, the ways articulated by this article with regard to waterproofing exterior walls are some of the best guarantees in the modern construction industry that the wall of your building or house will not be affected severely by water in any of its form.

Surveys on residential and commercial properties are generally carried out on older properties, listed buildings, properties that have been extended or modified and leasehold properties like flats. They can save the purchaser money if faults are found but choosing the right survey for your building is always important.

Homebuyers Survey and Valuation (HSV)

This survey is carried out against a specific set of criteria laid down by the Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors (RICS). It will provide the buyer with an overview of the property and will identify the parts of the building that need further inspection (if any). Wiring, drains and gas are not included in the survey nor are areas that are covered such as floors under carpets.

The HSV is recommended for all properties that have not been extended or remodeled and are not unusual in nature. The HSV will include:

• Assessing the major and minor faults of the property
• Advising whether any faults need to be repaired
• A damp and woodworm report
• An insurance cost for rebuilding the property should it be destroyed
• A valuation of the property on the current market
• A recommendation of any further surveys that should be carried out

Building/Structural Surveys

A Building Survey (also known as a Structural Survey) is a detailed, comprehensive inspection of all the accessible parts of a building and any specific areas highlighted by the client. This type or survey is useful for all buildings regardless of age, condition and design and is particularly useful if the buyer wishes to make any changes to the building once purchased. This type of survey is more expensive than a HSV and will not include a valuation of the property unless this has been specified up front. For more information visit Our Property.

The Building Survey will include:

• All major and minor faults in the building
• The value of repairing faults in the structure
• Testing for damp and woodworm
• Investigating the damp proofing, insulation and drains (although drains will not be tested)
• A technical breakdown of the construction of the building including materials used
• Proposals for any further surveys that should be undertaken.

Basic Mortgage Valuation

When you approach a mortgage lender, they will require you to carry out a mortgage valuation on your property. In many instances the mortgage provider will pay for this, but you may have to pay for it yourself. The purpose of this survey is to assure the mortgage lender that the property is worth the money you are going to pay for it. It is not an extensive survey and does not take very long. The Council of Mortgage Lenders has more information on this type of survey.

Survey Results

When the surveys have been completed there are several options open to you depending on your status. If you are the potential purchaser of the property then the surveys will provide you with all the information you need to move forward with the purchase, including the price you are willing to offer. If you are the owner of the property, these reports will highlight any work, structural or otherwise, that has to be carried out on the property before you can release your investment in the building.

Commercial Property Surveys

Regardless of the function of the building, it will be surveyed as part of the buying and selling process. Commercial properties are generally subject to a Building Survey from the outset and they are carried out in exactly the same way as a Building Survey for a residential property. It is normally recommended that the seller of a commercial property take out their own building survey, to advise them of any issues with the building, and also as an incentive to the buyer.

Repairs to the Building

If the reports highlight any problems with the building, these may well have to be repaired before the sale can go through, not too much of a problem if you are selling a retail property, but a commercial one? Who do you get in to help re-point the brickwork on the fourth floor? Who do you get in to make the outside of the property look as good as the inside of the property? Cleaning the outside of your building is as important as cleaning the inside, so make sure you get some professionals in before you start the sale.

Although it may seem like a daunting task, repairing a concrete wall is actually fairly simply when you know how. However, if you find that you need a little extra help, you can always contact the experts at http://www.sussexropeaccess.co.uk.

Choosing the right material for the job

A number of different masonry products can be used such as hydraulic cement to repair a concrete wall. However, most products are only effective for a few years. to gain lasting results, it is best to use a type of epoxy, which is relatively cheap and easy to use.

Make sure your wall is clean

Before you start, make sure that the crack is dry. Cracks that are slightly damp can be dried with a hairdryer. After drying, wait for fifteen minutes to make sure that there is no water seeping into the crack. Next, scrub away any loose paint, filler or concrete with a wire brush. A car vacuum cleaner can also be used to remove all debris and dust from the area.

Block the injection ports

Tap 3 inch finishing nails part of the way into the crack, spacing them out at approximately 12 inches. These nails can be used to line up the injection ports with the crack.

Attach the injection ports

Select plastic injection ports and spread the base of one of them with a little sealer, taking care that the hole is free from sealer. Slide the injection port over on top of one of the nails that you have placed into the crack and press it hard to the wall. The remaining injection ports can be installed in the same way.

Apply sealer around the crack

Use a margin trowel or putty knife to apply more epoxy sealer to the entire crack. Make sure that the sealer is spread approximately 1/8 inch thick and with around 1 inch on each side of the crack. Next, cover the flange of all of the injection ports with crack sealer, making sure that only the extended neck part remains visible. Take time to smooth out the sealer and then use a paintbrush that has been dipped in mineral spirits feather the edges of the sealer.

Inject epoxy into the crack

If you have access to the other side of the wall check to see whether or not the crack goes right the way through the wall to the other side. If this is the case, you will also need to seal the other side of the wall, following the steps outlined above. Leave the sealer for at least six hours before you inject the epoxy. Start at the lowest injection port and slowly and evenly dispense your epoxy into the crack.

Seal the injection ports

Remove the sealer gun from the crack and plug up the newly filled port. Insert the tip of the sealer gun into the port and dispense the epoxy. This procedure should be repeated for all of your injection ports.

Cut the injection ports away

Wait five days before using a hacksaw to cut the necks off of all of the injection ports. The severed ports can then be patched with a little crack sealer if you wish.

For more advise of fixing cracks in your concrete wall, check out the following sites: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,20355507,00.html, http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=27691339. If you also need to do other types of repairs such as repairing pipe penetrations you can find more information at http://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Poured-Concrete-Wall.

The adage “cleanliness is next to godliness” has existed for ages. Those who have taken time to reflect about its deep meaning and appreciate it in real life situations know the real worth of the phrase. Hygiene at home interiors or within any building is of the essence.

When it comes to windows, the stakes are even higher! This is because even the best-kept homes appear dingy, lackluster and gloomy if the windows are grimy. On the other hand, clean windows add sparkle to your home’s interior and exterior as well. Cleaning your windows also lets additional sunlight into your home.

While hiring a professional window cleaner may be a good idea, cleaning your windows in a professional manner is recommendable since professional services tend to be expensive.

Importance of keeping windows clean

Clean windows give an aesthetic look to any building and contribute significantly to the image of the home owner or professional business. Removing cob-webs, dust particles and grime, which build up on the inside and outside of the window, enhances the look of the house or a particular building. Clean windows prevent stains and haze from accumulating. Windows are one of the openings through which natural light enters into a building or room and allows air to ventilate freely. Clean windows help to freshen up rooms or buildings. Clean windows offer a better view when you’re either inside or outside certain premises.

Methods to use

Horizontal and vertical strokes are the basic methods employed to clean windows in homes. These are common tactics among amateurs. Professionals prefer the S stroke/Fan Stroke and Two Handed Window cleaning techniques. The method chosen depends on the size, shape and length of the glass and squeegee material and safety is a crucial aspect to this whole process.

Requirements

Gather all the tools and supplies that you need in order to do a good professional-looking job. The most important prerequisites are a dirty window, detergent or cleaning liquid, a bucket, broom or cloth or garden nose, absorbent cloths, dry cloth or chamois and a squeegee or sponge.

Ground Rules

One of the basic rules is that when cleaning both the inside and outside of a window, you should begin with the inside of the window since it is normally clean as compared to the outer side. When washing the inside windows, lay a towel on the floor before you start cleaning the windows.
It is recommended that windows be cleaned from top going downwards.

Simple Professional Procedure

Remove any thing precious placed at the dirty window. This includes sliding windows and any windscreens hanging against the windows. Remove any cobwebs, excess dirt and dust with a broom, cloth or garden nose. Fill a bucket of water and add a small amount of the detergent or cleaning liquid. Soak your sponge in the bucket filled with water or deep a squeegee in the bucket in order to start cleaning the window. Employ any of the above mentioned three or other professional methods to clean your windows, their frames and panes. Use a chamois or a dry rag to remove any excess water from the squeegee to avoid having visible lines on the window pane. Don’t also forget to dry your squeegee with a chamois or dry rag after each stroke you’ve made on the window being cleaned. Dry off the windows, the frames and panes using different absorbent cloths.

Value of clean windows

Money magazine recently wrote that “Washing windows is the number one presale improvement that generates the best return on investment as measured by a higher selling price.”

Since purchasing a property is one of the most significant investments that anyone can make, it is essential to make sure that a building is in a good state of repair before making any decisions. Routine building inspections are also important after a property has been bought, as doing this will help identify any potential problems before they become too costly to repair. These inspections can also help identify safety hazards. Whether you need to carry out a building inspection at a residential or at a commercial property, the following checklist can help you sistematically assess the state of the building.

Building Inspections: the Exterior

-Is the drainage system graded in such a way that it allows water to be drained away from the building and its foundations? If it is not, rain water could easily accumulate and result in serious structural damage, mold and mildew. As a general rule of thumb, drainage systems (such as gutters) should gradually increase their slope by 1 inch every 2 feet. Roof drain pipes should direct the water at least 6 feet away from the building foundations.

-Is the building sufficiently far away from tree branches? Are there are large tree roots within 6 feet of the building? If so, these could cause subsidence.

-If there are any wooden sheds, fences, or decks, is the wood in good condition? Watch out for termites and for rotten wood due to water damage.

-Is the exterior of the building free of cracks and flaking?

-Are wooden surfaces or elements at least 6 inches away from the ground?

-Do window and door frames look straight?

-Are gutter joints property seales and free of rust? Are gutters themselves securely attached to the building?

-If there is a chimney in the building, does it stand straight? Are all bricks and joints in good condition, free of cracks? Are there any parts missing?

-If the roof is made of shingles, are there any shingles missing or broken? Is there any mold on the shingles, or do they look cupped? Also, note that this type of roof should have no more than two layers of shingles.

-Flat roofs should show no evidence of blisters, splitting, or silt deposits, as this could indicate drainage problems. Roof flashings should be properly sealed with tar to prevent water leaks. To access the roof, you may want to contact a specialist company, like http://sussexropeaccess.co.uk/

-Are ventilation elements (such as grilles or trickle vents) free or blockages? Blocked ventilation systems have a negative effect on air quality and can result in poor energy efficiency.

-Are there any fire hazards in the yard, driveway, shed, or garage?

Building Inspections: the Interior

-Are interior walls free of damp? Look for stains, paint blisters or flaking, and blotchy patches. In rooms that have been tiled, make sure that the tiles are fully sealed (particularly in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms).

-Are there any signs of condensation? If the windows are steamed up or there are water puddles on the window sills, the building could have ventilation issues. Damp and condensation can be notoriously difficult to repair, so learn more about how to identify both at http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/mar/01/diy.homes8

-Do all doors and windows close properly without jamming? Besides from being a functional issue, doors and windows that do not close properly could indicate that the floor or walls are not level.

-If there is a fireplace, are there any stains on its front? If so, this could mean that there are back drafting problems, which can make the building unsafe

-Are stairways stable?

-Is electrical wiring in good condition? To learn more about the current regulations, visit http://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/key-choices/heating/wiring-explained

-Are walls properly insulated? In the UK, the majority of buildings that were constructed after the 1990s have wall insulation. If th building is older, you will first need to know what type of walls are in place. You can find more information at http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Insulation/Wall-insulation

What are building inspections for?

Building inspections are carried out to ensure that the building in question is structurally sound and not about to collapse. If any new building works are being carried out then they will have to comply with the UK Building Regulations and the council will visit to ensure they are.
Another type of inspection that we are all more familiar with is the one carried out on a new home before the contracts are signed. This is a safeguard carried out by a surveyor, professional builder or architect to ensure that you are not about to buy a dud and that the building or flat that you are about to buy is structurally sound.

What does a council inspector look for?

When starting work on a new building or major renovation, the council must be informed as they need to start their inspections before you have even begun. After you have contacted your local council they will send along someone to carry out a commencement inspection and you can’t start without them. They have to give your plans the once over just to make sure they are sound and you can’t even finish the foundations without a signed agreement.
This is also the case for many stages throughout the build, from the excavations for the foundations, to the drains, damp-proof course and completion as at each stage, the inspector has to agree the quality and safety of the work. There are extra difficulties obviously if this is a high-rise building as the exterior needs to be checked as well. The traditional route for this is by putting up scaffolding but a cheaper and faster alternative is to use someone like Sussex Rope Access who can abseil around the outside of the building for a more accurate inspection. Once the building has been cleared for structural inadequacies and potential safety hazards, the inspector will sign off and your property can be sold, leased or inhabited.

What does an inspector look for in a residential home?

The inspector here will look inside and out for signs of disrepair and will let you know if you do decide to buy the property whether you will be saddled with a massive bill for repair. The first thing to do here is to find a qualified surveyor either by looking at The Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors website or www.localsurveyorsdirect.co.uk .

Outside checks

Once you have found your surveyor they will check outside the property for rotting timbers, fire hazards, missing roof tiles or any other damage to the structure. They will also check fences and even outbuildings for instance a shed or granny flat. I believe they can investigate the garden for poisonous plants as well but personally I’m not sure that is as important as a leaky roof!

Inside checks

As far as inside is concerned they won’t go delving into cupboards and drawers but they will check for cracks, mould and damp, plumbing and electrical systems to make sure they are all in working order. And once you have been given the report it is vital that you check the cost of any repairs that they suggest. It may be possible to insist that repairs are done before you actually exchange contracts which should save you a bit of money as it’s surprising how much costs spiral when moving house.

And finally…

All in all, an inspection may seem to be an unnecessary extra expense. But in order for a new build to be legal or to ensure your new home won’t be costing you the earth as soon as you move in, it is a necessary one. Just make sure that the surveyor or any other professionals you employ to help you are qualified and knowledgeable and you will be well rewarded in the long run.

Apart from interfering with the beauty and durability of your roof, moss also poses serious health risks to you and your family. To avoid all these, you should always try to get rid of moss from your roof early enough before it spreads beyond control. Even though removing moss from the roof can be a bit challenging, there are a number of effective techniques that if used correctly, can help you greatly in eliminating the harmful plant. Some of these techniques include:

1. Power Washing Method

Using a power spray is one of the best methods of getting rid of moss from the roof. Due to the high pressure being exerted on the roof by water, you need to be very careful when using this method. This is due to the fact that apart from removing moss from the roof, the pressure also loosens your roofing materials which can cause sliding. For best results, do not spray at one point for long. Stop pressure-washing once the roots become loose and then use a wire brush to sweep the weakened moss away from the roof. While pushing off the moss from the roof, be careful not to apply more force on the roof than necessary.

2. Use of Herbicides and Bleach

Due to the fact that moss is a plant, it can easily be killed or controlled by the use of herbicides. You should be very cautious while spraying herbicides on the roof because they not only contain various chemical components that are dangerous to moss, but to other types of plants as well. In order to protect the other plants growing on the ground below the roof from the effects of herbicides, you should cover them using a tarp or canvas before you begin spraying. Start by spraying the herbicide and sweeping off dead moss from the top of the roof as you come down. This is to allow you to walk on dry of tiles and shingles and not on herbicide-filled moss.

3. Getting Help From Nature

Moss thrives on moist roof usually shaded from the sun by tall vegetation. Even though you cannot control nature’s moisture, you can be able to reduce or eliminate the shade preventing sunlight from reaching the roof. By cutting down all tall trees or other types of vegetation surrounding your homestead, you can affect the growth of moss on your roof. Without the tall vegetation, sunlight will easily reach the roof and keep it dry, denying moss the chance to grow or thrive.

4. Use Bleaching Agents

Bleaching agents also play a major role in helping you destroy roof moss. The best type of bleach you can ever use is the oxygen bleach as it is much safer and more eco-friendly as compared to other types of bleaching agents such as chlorine bleach. It contains mild chemical components that are very dangerous to moss but not harmful to metal gutters or other roofing materials. In addition, it is very simple to use. It comes in powder form that you only need to mix with water as per the manufacturer’s directions and then spray directly to the moss growing on your roof.

To avoid bleaching or interfering with the roof shingles or tiles, spray the bleach on an overcast or cloudy day to prevent it from reacting with direct sunlight. You should also spray the plants on the ground with water to protect them from the harmful effects of bleach debris. After you have sprayed the bleach, wait for about 30 minutes before wiping the dead moss from the roof with a wire brush.

References

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/moss-removal-tips#.UWWrtjdQM24
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/roof-moss-removal-tips-for-roofs-with-asphalt-shingles#.UWWr1DdQM24

There are a number of jobs both inside and outside of the house that involve working at height. These jobs may require the use ladders, scaffolding or platforms down to basic things like chairs (to change light bulbs). Whatever way you’re working at height, there are a number of essential precautions and safety procedures to follow that apply in all cases.

Don’t Start Yet!

Before you begin, it’s imperative that you do as much work as possible at ground level. This is particularly the case if the job you’re doing involves self-assembly or something that involves dexterity and concentration. Jobs like this can easily divert your attention from the safety risks of working at height and are best avoided.

If you’re using a ladder you should never work at height if the job involves the use of both hands. One hand must always be reserved for gripping the ladder rung. If you need to use both hands, you will have to use a mobile or fixed scaffold system.

Check Your Equipment

Before deciding to use any access equipment, check that it’s in good, working condition and is sturdy enough to easily take the whole weight of your body. Be extra careful with any equipment that has paint on it. Paint can cover faulty components.

You should read any safety information attached to the equipment. This safety information should inform you about the maximum weight the equipment can take.

Placing Your Equipment

Next, where possible, place your access equipment on ground at is smooth, flat and well balanced.

In the case of ladders, if they are not fixable, another person should foot the ladder. Whatever contacts the ladder at its highest point should always be a solid surface i.e. brick and mortar. Be wary of glass, wood and other materials that are prone to weakening over time.

Climbing Up

You should always reserve both hands for climbing up ladders. You are most at risk to injury while going up and down the ladder when your body position is no longer fixed.

If you are only taking up one small tool, putting it into your pockets will suffice. If you’re taking up multiple tools, use either a shoulder bag or a tool belt. On ladders, don’t use heavy tools or tools that require the use of both hands.

Working At Height

Now that you’re working at height, you have already covered most of the safety procedures to ensure a safe working experience. But there are a couple of remaining points.

Before transferring any of your body weight away from the access equipment to another surface, ensure that it’s sturdy and can accommodate the full weight of your body.

Any work that you do at height should not involve stretching away from your access equipment (ladders, scaffolding, platforms etc).

And Finally…

If you are ever in doubt, seek the advice and help of someone that knows what they’re doing. When working at height, if you are unsure about what you’re doing, you’re taking a risk.

Since it is one of the biggest causes of fatalities and serious injury, you should never take a risk when working at height.

What is eyebolt testing?

The guidelines for working safely with eyebolts require them to be installed and used correctly and tested periodically. According to Work at Heights Regulations of 2005 (www.legislation.gov.uk), safety anchor devices (eyebolts) that are used as safeguards against falls should be suitable for the job and have sufficient strength and stability to safely support the weight to which they are attached and arrest falls. Eyebolts used in other applications such as lifting equipment should comply with the Health and Safety at Work etc Act 1974 requirements (http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/priced/l113.pdf).

Why is Eyebolt testing important?

The aim of eyebolt testing requirements is to create a safe work environment for workers, contractors and the public, too. Periodic testing on eyebolts is extremely important as it ensures the integrity of the eyebolts is maintained for them to function properly.

Eyebolt testing procedure

Contractors and employers are obliged by law to ensure the eyebolts they install and use are tested for safety. The testing procedure basically involves a qualified, certified and competent person carrying out a manual step by step inspection of the eyebolts. For eyebolts that are already installed, each of them is removed and examined. The anchor devices are checked for approval for suitability on the structure on which they are installed. The tester also checks that the positioning requirements for the eyebolts are met. The device should be easily accessible in case of an emergency.
Before load testing is performed on the eyebolts, the area around the structure should be checked to ensure it is free of damage and cracks. Eyebolts installed for easy rope access applications should be check for correct anchor spacing between each other. Similarly, eyebolts that are set on solid constructions must be checked for defects, corrosion and correct thread engagement. Next, load testing is carried out on each eyebolt using specialised equipment. Load testing is directed at least 50mm from the eyebolt’s centre line. The testing device is held for at least 15 seconds, during which the eyebolt should not show signs of failure.

Reporting procedure after eyebolt testing

The eyebolts that fail the test are either removed completely or labelled with a ‘do not use’ tag. The rest are each tagged with an individual PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) identification that shows the device usage category such as fall arrest, rope access, work positioning, abseiling or fall restraint. It also shows the date for the next testing and any other required details. The tester then issues a certificate to show that satisfactory testing has been completed and that the eyebolts are suited to the application they are used on. According to the Work at Height Safety Association (WAHSA, http://www.wahsa.co.uk), eyebolt installations must be checked for compliance with the BS 7883:2005 requirements. For the existing eyebolts that fail the testing and safety requirements, the tester is required to record a detailed report showing the eyebolts that are suitable for use and those that should be removed and the recommendations.

The recommended intervals for eyebolt testing

Installed eyebolts should be tested periodically. Eyebolts that are used for rope access should undergo testing every six months and those used for fall arrest every 12 months. Normally, a client or owner of the premises is issued with documentation that contains manufacturer’s instructions that follow the BS 7883 recommendations for the specific application after eyebolts are installed. The client should provide this documentation and the person carrying out the testing should refer to the instructions when examining the eyebolts. If the documentation is unavailable, the tester should use the general BS7883:2005 guidelines. Work environments in which personal protection equipment is required are prone to accidents. Some of these are fatal and can cause serious injury or death. Testing eyebolts and other protective equipment must therefore never be overlooked.